A traveller's reflection: Trans-Siberian 12: Kazan

"An action committed in anger is an action doomed to failure..." - Genghis Khan

(A bronze statue of Maklasheevka Horseman)

Day 12: Monday, 13 May 2024
Route: Kazan - Bolgar - Kazan
Hotel: Kazan Palace Hotel

We had an early breakfast at the Kazan Palace Hotel. Today we headed to the Bolgar Historical and Archaeological Complex about 180 km to the south of Kazan.

(A hotel with elaborate modern design)

(Spacious dining area)

(A good spread of buffet breakfast)

(Mirror on the ceiling)

(A long trip to Bolgar)

After about a hundred kilometres away from Kazan, we stopped for a comfort break and some refreshments at a R&R along Kama River. Bought a piece of pie and had a cup of steaming hot hazelnut coffee from our thermos.

(Beautiful tranquil sceneries)

(Passing through rivers and grasslands)

(Views of the countryside)

(Many R&R stops along the highway)

(Refreshment and comfort break)

(Having steaming hot cup of coffee)

At 1100 hrs we arrived at the Bolgar Historical and Archaeological Complex which was founded in 1969. A sizable collection of relics from the Golden Horde era had already been amassed. Today, the rich history of the complex attracts tourists and pilgrims from around the world.

(Museum of Bolgar Civilization)

(Qul Ghali, a famous Bolgar Muslim poet)

(The museum also function as a river station)

A small town with an area of 7 hectares adjoined to Bolgar’s southern wall is presumed to have either been the khan's summer residence or a caravanserai for travelers along the Great Silk Road. Historians have determined where the town’s entrance gate was located and uncovered remains resembling a minaret and a room for ablutions.

(Presentation of medieval civilisation)

(Tradional handicrafts)

(Displays of archaeological collections)

(Evidences on the acceptance of Islam by the Volga- Bolgars)

(Museum of Bolgar Civilisation, the arrival of Islam)

(A group photo in the Bolgar museum)

Our first visit was the Museum of Bolgar Civilization which has more than 1,600 exhibits on Bolgar’s medieval period. Located in River Station building, the exhibits cover 2000 square meters and are enhanced by recreated buildings, colorful maps and multimedia equipment.

(Colorful drawings on maps)

(Drawings depicting historical events)

Museum of Islam, better known as Koran Museum, opened in 2011. Its building is an octahedron crowned with a dome and a crescent, giving it the appearance of an ancient Bolgar mosque. Inside, visitors can learn about Islam and the most pivotal religious events to occur in the area. A historic memorial sign which reads “Erected in honor of the adoption of Islam by the Volga Bolgars in 922” is also on display.

( The golden dome of the Quran Museum)

(Octahendron building with a dome)

(Collections of old quran)

(Antique Arabic calligraphy on display)

The main attraction of Museum of Islam is a display of the largest printed Koran in the world, made by special order in Italy and listed in the Guinness Book of Records. Measuring 2 x1.5 meters and weighing an astonishing 800 kilograms, its cover is made of malachite cloth and flecked with stones, while the pages are made of Scottish paper threaded with silk and silver. Its patterned design is plated with gold and the binding made of calfskin. A source of pride for Muslims, the Koran can be viewed in the museum’s central hall.

(The largest printed quran in the world)

(weighing an astonishing 800 kg)

The Cathedral Mosque is the only surviving structure from the early Golden Horde period. Originally used for religious ceremonies and as an emergency shelter during enemy attacks, it is now a holy site for Muslims. Its large minaret was built directly into the mosque wall before collapsing in 1841, most likely due to a cavern formed underneath by adventurous treasure hunters. The minaret was restored based on sketches made in 1827 and now offers visitors amazing views of the complex.

(The remains of the Cathedral Mosque)

(The surviving minarets and walls)

Khan's Tomb is an early 14th century mausoleum in which eight Muslim graves were discovered, bringing the total number of tombs unearthed at the complex to more than thirty. Ten Islamic saints and several Bolgar khans are interred here, and if legend is true one of the holy men who introduced Islam to the land was also buried on site.

(The entrance and one of the barred windows)

(The unearthed tombs)

Northern Mausoleum is a 14th century grave situated opposite the central entrance of Cathedral Mosque. During excavations, it became a storage area for tombstones discovered on the grounds. The stones’ unusual inscriptions consist of the name of the deceased, their social status, date of death and Quranic quotes.

(Once a storage area for tombstones)

(Located next to the Cathedral Mosque and Assumption Church)

Eastern Chamber, also called Khan's Bath, is one of the oldest buildings at the museum reserve. Built between the mid 13th to early 14th centuries, it was used as a public bathhouse before collapsing in the middle of the 14th century. Its foundation was spared, and in recent times the original design of Khan’s Bath, which bears strong resemblance to White Chamber, was professionally restored.

(Also known as Eastern Chamber)

(Confluence of Volga River and Kama River)

(A wooden swing by the river)

After a tiring walking tour, we had lunch of beef noodles soup with potatoes and meat at the White Mosque cafeteria.

(Simple tasty cafeteria dishes)

After lunch, we performed Zohor/Asar prayers at the White Mosque. White Mosque is one of the most recognizable sites in all of Tatarstan. Built in 2012, it is regarded as the local Taj Mahal and serves as the main mosque of Bolgar.

(A new architectural monument in Bolgar)

(A group photo is a must)

Comprised of three domes and two minarets, it was built to resemble a typical Middle Eastern mosque. In the center is a large granite-lined courtyard with a reservoir and cascading waterfall, on the surface of which the mosque is beautifully reflected. The square serves as a symbol of the paradise garden of Chahar Bah and is divided by streams into four quadrants surrounded by eighty-eight white marble columns symbolic of the historic columns of Bolgar Cathedral Mosque. Not surprisingly, this courtyard has become a popular photo spot.

(The replica of the White Mosque)

(The prayer hall can accomodate 300 worshippers)

The mosque’s majestic white stone walls bear classic ornamentation and a crescent moon, while the prayer hall covers an area of 180 square meters and is noted for its diffused lighting which gives the site an air of mystery.

(The tulips are blooming in the garden)

(A traditional windmill in Bolgar)

Museum of Bread outlines the development of agriculture in the city. It invites visitors back in time through recreated village buildings and a miller's estate, where fresh bread is still baked and sold to tourists.

(Fresh bread is baked and sold here)

(A recreated village and a traditional flour mill)

About 1530 hrs we headed back to Kazan taking the same route back. We had dinner at Kazan Halal SteakHouse in one of the shopping malls in Kazan. We had grilled salmon and horse meat steak. The horse meat steak was delicious.